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  • History
  • Plate XVI · section 13 of 21

    Italy, Spain, Portugal, Belgium

    Photograph of the interior of the Caffè Gambrinus in Naples: marble counter, gilded stucco, mirrors and chandeliers of a room opened in 1860, where coffee is drunk standing at the bar.
    The Caffè Gambrinus, NaplesNemo bis (Wikimedia Commons) · CC BY-SA 3.0

    The Italy of 1922 is not yet the country of espresso. Ukers describes there roasting done wholesale, retail and at home, a marked taste for the full city roast that is also called Italian roast, frequent glazing and numerous additions; for restaurants, quick-filtration machines. As in France, great store is set by café au lait in the morning and black coffee is served at the end of dinner, and French-style cafés line the Corso in Rome, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan and the arcades of St. Mark's Square. The lever machine, the standing counter and the vocabulary of the Italian bar are absent from this inventory: they came later.

    Ukers 1922, ch. XXXV, p. 655-694

    In Spain and Portugal, French-style coffee prospers as in Italy. Around the Puerta del Sol in Madrid, coffee and chocolate are the favorite drinks. Coffee is made there by filtration, and Lisbon has its sidewalk terraces.

    In Belgium too, the French filter dominates. Chicory is used there freely, not as a fraud but as a modifier, exactly the status it has in Paris.

    Ukers finally reports that the greatest coffee drinker among reigning monarchs is said to be the King of the Belgians. His rhythm follows the whole day. A cup before breakfast, one after. One at the midday meal, one in the afternoon. One after dinner, and one more in the evening.

    Ukers 1922, ch. XXXV, p. 655-694
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