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  • Plate XXI · section 04 of 15

    Europe does the opposite: it adds a handle and removes the holder

    Photograph of a small porcelain coffee cup and its saucer, scattered with blue star motifs on a white ground and edged with broad gold bands, the handle being square in shape.
    Austrian cup and saucerCooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York · Public domain

    The European gesture is exactly symmetrical to the Ottoman one. Rather than wrapping a scalding cup in a holder, a grip is grafted onto it. The handle kills the zarf, and with it a whole silverwork craft.

    The word follows the same path as the object. “Tasse” comes from the Arabic tass, by way of Middle French. Littré defines the demi-tasse as a cup smaller than ordinary cups, in which coffee with water is ordinarily served. The word enters English in 1842. The surviving examples are small: a soft-paste porcelain coffee cup from a service of the years 1780 to 1790 measures 4.6 centimeters high.

    What makes the handle possible is not an idea, it is a material. Earthenware is a porous earth covered with a glaze, and it requires thick walls so as not to break. Hard-paste porcelain, made of kaolin and feldspar, vitrifies in firing and becomes dense. It therefore allows much thinner walls at equal strength, and a handle fine enough not to weigh the piece down.

    The first successful firing of European hard-paste porcelain took place at Meissen in 1708, around Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus, who died in October of that year, and Johann Friedrich Böttger. The royal manufactory of Saxony was founded in January 1710. One often reads 1708 for the founding, which confuses the first firing with the creation of the establishment.

    The kaolin of Saint-Yrieix, and why the sources do not agree

    In France, everything changes with the discovery of the kaolin of Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche, in Limousin. The sources agree neither on the year nor on the author, and it must be said so rather than choosing.

    The Louvre-Lens attributes the discovery to the chemist Pierre-Joseph Macquer, in 1766, and gives 1768 for the first hard-paste porcelain of Sèvres. The Limousin sources, among them the sheet of the École normale supérieure de Lyon, date it to 1768, at the place called Clos de Barre, and attribute it to Jean-Baptiste Darnet, a retired military doctor, the white earth having been identified by the Bordeaux apothecary Marc-Hilaire Villaris. Louis XV buys the seam for Sèvres. The first Limoges manufactory opens in 1771.

    This disagreement is not trivial. It shows how closely the fabrication of a national story of porcelain followed the fabrication of porcelain itself, and it invites distrust of round dates.

    Émile Littré, Dictionnaire de la langue française, entry “tasse”; Merriam-Webster, entry “demitasse”; Metropolitan Museum of Art, inv. 61.107.367; Musée du Louvre-Lens, “À la recherche de la recette de la porcelaine dure”; Planet-Terre, École normale supérieure de Lyon, “Les pegmatites et le kaolin de Marcognac, Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche,” 2019
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